JCC E-Magazine February 2022

Toys, books, sports memorabilia and more: people cultivate all sorts of collections based on their interests. In Japan, stamp collections–not the postage kind, but ink stamps–are common. Train operators and tourist associations set up stamp stations at train stations and places of interest where visitors can ink these stamps into notebooks and specially designed flyers. These stamps are usually part of stamp rallies: visitors are encouraged to visit various locations to collect unique stamps after which, when the rally is complete, they will receive a small prize.

The precursor to the modern stamp rally however, is not as commercial. In fact, the practice of stamp collecting is deeply intertwined with pilgrimages to holy sites around the country. The history of this practice extends as far back as the Nara Period (710-794 AD); with several pilgrimage circuits around the country, such as the Kumano Kodo (熊野古道) in the Kii Peninsula which required stops at many temples along the way, Japanese pilgrims wanted a way to keep track of which temples they had already been to. This led to the creation of the temple notebook. Back then, the temple priest would sign the notebook, indicating the visitor’s proof of visit. Another theory of the origins of this practice is that these stamps were distributed as receipts for visitors’ handwritten Buddhist sutras.

Over time, these signatures have evolved to become more elaborate with elegant calligraphy and unique red-ink seals. Today, the practice or hobby of stamp collecting is known as goshuin atsume (御朱印集め), with goshuin meaning ‘seal stamp’, and atsume meaning ‘to collect’. They are collected in notebooks, or stamp books are known as goshuincho (御朱印帳) and it is considered proper etiquette to collect stamps from Buddhist temples in one book and stamps from Shinto shrines in another separate one. These accordion-folded stamp books can be found at stationery shops and relatively inexpensive, but some temples and shrines offer books that are more expensive, with its own distinctive design.

To collect these stamps, visitors must first visit a temple or shrine. As goshuin serve as proof of visit, it is only polite for visitors to pay respect to these locations instead of treating it as a pit stop. After paying respects, visitors should head to the temple or shrine’s goshuin reception desk. (In cases where there is no dedicated reception desk, goshuin may be available where omamori are sold.) After paying a small fee, visitors will hand over their stamp books in which temple or shrine staff will complete the stamp. As each stamp is handwritten, it may take time, and it is not uncommon to see long snaking queues at popular locations.

While each location may have different designs, goshuin will generally possess these main elements: the date of one’s visit; the name of the temple or shrine; the phrase houhai, which means ‘worship’–these are written in calligraphy, usually in black ink. Then, red-ink stamps that indicate the name of the shrine are applied. The personalisation means that no two goshuin, even if collected from the same location, are the same! Each are distinctive in their own way thanks to the different design, layout, and even calligraphy style used by each location.

Some locations may require something more than a fee for a goshuin. Certain locations require to handwrite Buddhist sutras, an activity known as shakyo (写経), in order to receive a goshuin. This ‘old school’ practice is rather uncommon, harking back to when goshuin were given to pilgrims in exchange for handwritten Buddhist sutras!

Here are some of the most popular places frequented by goshuin collectors who search far and wide for unique stamps! Himejima Shrine in Osaka is well known for its scallop shell votive tablets as well as goshuin that feature its bright red torii gates. Tokyo’s Karasunomori Shrine offers goshuin in four different colours–red, blue, yellow, and green–depending on events at the shrine. The Houtokuji in Kyoto offers a new stamp design every month featuring seasonal flowers, and the Wakeoke Shrine in Nagoya has limited edition designs for traditional Japanese events such as Setsubun!

For tourists, goshuin not only make a beautiful reminder of temples and shrines they have visited but they serve as one-of-a-kind, uniquely Japanese souvenirs! However, before you start planning your next trip, it is advised to first check if the shrine or temple you are visiting indeed offers goshuin. Temples of particular sects or certain locations may not offer goshuin, so it is best to check ahead to avoid disappointment.

Which temple or shrine would you like to collect your first goshuin from?

Resources

Doré, Guillame. 2019. "Introduction To Stamp Rallies". Japantravel. https://en.japantravel.com/guide/introduction-to-stamp-rallies/46627.

Griffin, Anthony. 2020. "The Goshuincho: A Necessity For Japan Travel Enthusiasts". Kokoro Media. https://kokoro-jp.com/culture/24/.

Hagebak, Chris. 2019. "How To Purchase And Use A Goshuincho". Arigato Travel. https://arigatojapan.co.jp/how-to-purchase-and-use-a-goshuincho/.

Mulvihill, Richard. 2014. "The Japan Temple Stamp Book". Japantravel. https://en.japantravel.com/kanagawa/the-japan-temple-stamp-book/14659.

Norrbom, Ryan. 2020. "Japan's Original Stamp Rally Is A Godly One". The Japan Times. https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2020/11/03/language/japan-original-stamp-rally/.

Wallin, Lisa. 2017. "A Beginner's Guide To Goshuincho: How To Get One And How To Use It | Guides & Insights". Tokyo Weekender. https://www.tokyoweekender.com/2017/11/a-beginners-guide-to-goshuincho-how-to-get-one-and-how-to-use-it/.

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