JCC E-Magazine April 2022

The Setouchi Islands that span the waters of the Seto Inland Sea are famed for their thriving art scene. Three islands in particular that fall within the jurisdiction of Kagawa prefecture are hotspots for art lovers, who visit for the array of art facilities, museums, and festivals they host. These islands are Naoshima, Teshima, and Shodoshima!

Perhaps the most well-known of the three is Naoshima. The island is home to a population of about 3,000, with lush natural environment that affords residents views of mountains and the sea. It is also home to a number of major museums and interesting art projects and displays! The Benesse House Museum is a facility that sits at the heart of the island. Designed by world-renowned architect Tadao Ando, the Benesse House comprises of both a museum and hotel, allowing guests the opportunity to spend all day and all night surrounded by art! In addition to this unique building, there are two other Ando-designed museums on the island: the Chichu Art Museum and the Lee Ufan Museum. The display space of the Chichu Art Museum extends underground, so as to avoid disrupting the natural beauty of the natural landscape aboveground. Artworks by Claude Monet and James Turrell are on permanent display at this space. The Lee Ufan Museum is also built to be semi-underground, and is meant to complement the dynamic artworks by artist Lee Ufan that are on display there. To learn more about the architect Tadao Ando and his extensive portfolio of works, visitors can also visit the Ando Museum on the island.

Whether it is in New York, London, or Singapore, just a mention of the name ‘Yayoi Kusama’ is enough to draw large crowds to museums, all eager for a glimpse of the contemporary artist’s distinctive polka dot-patterned artworks. On Naoshima however, visitors can view two of the artist’s sculptures for free, framed by natural views outdoors! In fact, the first thing visitors see when they disembark the ferry that brings them to the island is a sculpture of an enormous red pumpkin, decorated with black polka dots. Large and hollow, visitors can even explore the inside of the sculpture! A yellow pumpkin sculpture used to sit on the beachfront lookout point, however it was swept into the sea during a typhoon in August 2021 – it will be a while before this iconic sculpture will be restored.

Besides museums and public art displays, Naoshima also fosters many opportunities for locals and visitors to interact through various art initiatives. For example, “I♥︎湯” by artist Shinro Ohtake in a bathhouse; the space was created to be not just an art facility, but a space where international exchanges can take place!

Not to be outdone, Teshima too boasts a wide array of art facilities that will keep guests enamoured. There is the Teshima Art Museum, a unique building designed by architect Ryue Nishizawa and made to look like a water droplet as it lands, which highlights the coexistence of art and nature. Dotted around the island are also several old buildings that have been repurposed to house extraordinary art installations. One of these buildings is known as Les Archives du Cœur (‘The Archive of Heartbeats’ in English) and it houses a unique aural experience. The brainchild of French artist Christian Boltanski, Les Archives du Cœur is where visitors can listen to recordings of the heartbeats of people throughout the world. They can even record their own heartbeats along with a personal message, thereby becoming part of this permanent project. Another old building, known as the Storm House, allows visitors to experience a storm unfolding indoors; and another one known as the Teshima 8 Million Lab invites visitors to consider the Shinto religion in relation to science. Most visitors are familiar too with the Teshima Yokoo House — this is an old house that has been altered and renovated to host several installations throughout its premises, prompting retrospection on life and death. All of these experimental and experiential spaces are housed in charming, old buildings, which shows Teshima’s dedication to preserving the traditional way of life on the island.

Shodoshima may be more well known amongst the general public for its sprawling olive orchards and for being the picturesque setting of many novels and films, but the art community on the island is very active as well! Launched in 2013, the Fukutake House houses an exhibition space as well as the Fukuda Asian Diner. The building was formerly an elementary school but has since been renovated, its insides repurposed to provide a space for the local community in Shodoshima to connect and interact with other Asian countries! As part of the Asia Art Platform, many activities are conducted as a way to deepen understanding between its international participants and to help archive and preserve local island culture.

Besides these museums and installations that welcome visitors all year round, these islands in the Seto Inland Sea also jointly host the Setouchi Triennale. This contemporary art festival takes place in venues on over a dozen islands, including Naoshima, Teshima, and Shodoshima. First held in 2010, the festival has since built a prominent reputation for itself, attracting artists and visitors from all over the world.

Like the museums and art projects, the Setouchi Triennale serves as a way to draw attention to the region. The islands in the Seto Inland Sea are rather rural, and as such has been suffering from issues such as a rapidly aging resident population and depopulation. These art facilities and projects help revitalise these areas, breathing new purpose and life into abandoned homes and disused land. The art in these revitalised areas then draw in visitors, which could help boost tourism and create more opportunities for international exchanges!

With the stunning natural landscape, these islands are already a must-visit on every tourist’s list. However if you are an avid art enthusiast, then Naoshima, Teshima, and Shodoshima are absolutely not to be left off your itinerary!

Resources

"Benesse Art Site Naoshima". 2022. IS JAPAN COOL?. Accessed March 24. https://www.ana-cooljapan.com/destinations/kagawa/benesseartsitenaoshima.

"Setouchi Islands". 2022. Travel Japan (Japan National Tourism Organization). Accessed March 24. https://www.japan.travel/en/destinations/shikoku/kagawa/setouchi-islands/.

"Teshima - Island Living And Cafés". 2022. IS JAPAN COOL?. Accessed March 24. https://www.ana-cooljapan.com/destinations/kagawa/teshima-islandlivingandcafes.

"The Islands Of The Seto Inland Sea". 2010. Web Japan. https://web-japan.org/trends/09_food/jfd100819.html.

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